02

Research archive

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Room 02 · the complete room, 70 pages · 26 shown as citations

The whole research room, seventy pages. The fifteen chosen for the walk come first and are marked; the rest of her desk follows in her own order. Twenty six of these pages are built around other designers' runway photography, gathered as study while the collection was forming, and each names its house. Seven more carry imagery the page never credited, and say so. The rest are hers.

Concept statement in her own words: how can a garment hold something that disappears the moment we try to remember it, with her dream light composite and the first palette strip.
[ On the walk ]Concept statement in her own words: how can a garment hold something that disappears the moment we try to remember it, with her dream light composite and the first palette strip.
Concept board 01, Fragments of Awakening: her collage of the first seconds after waking, dream imagery still overlapping the real room.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 01, Fragments of Awakening: her collage of the first seconds after waking, dream imagery still overlapping the real room.
Concept board 02, Between Consciousness: city, body and landscape stretched into continuous streams as thought reconnects.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 02, Between Consciousness: city, body and landscape stretched into continuous streams as thought reconnects.
Concept board 03, Residual Dreams: overlapping hands layered so a gesture reads as an afterimage rather than a movement.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 03, Residual Dreams: overlapping hands layered so a gesture reads as an afterimage rather than a movement.
Concept board 07, the same chapter resolved as painted hands, the quietest image in the sequence.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 07, the same chapter resolved as painted hands, the quietest image in the sequence.
Concept board 04, Aurora: the title metaphor, a zone of light between darkness and awareness with no fixed edge.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 04, Aurora: the title metaphor, a zone of light between darkness and awareness with no fixed edge.
Concept board 05, Nature Inside Memory: the body dissolving into flowers, terrain and blue line work.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 05, Nature Inside Memory: the body dissolving into flowers, terrain and blue line work.
Concept board 06, Quiet Recognition: black patches and white space as reality begins to take weight again.
[ On the walk ]Concept board 06, Quiet Recognition: black patches and white space as reality begins to take weight again.
Colour board: threshold blue, dream residue and silent light, with the material direction and the ten swatch row.
[ On the walk ]Colour board: threshold blue, dream residue and silent light, with the material direction and the ten swatch row.
Textiles and shape index board 01: her ink and photo collage read as dense organic mass, modular grid and dissolving perimeter.
[ On the walk ]Textiles and shape index board 01: her ink and photo collage read as dense organic mass, modular grid and dissolving perimeter.
Index board 03: ink diffusion and fragmented petals, the most open and colourful of the index studies.
[ On the walk ]Index board 03: ink diffusion and fragmented petals, the most open and colourful of the index studies.
Index board 05: botanical contour, lace network and the first cool blue accent entering the field.
[ On the walk ]Index board 05: botanical contour, lace network and the first cool blue accent entering the field.
Index board 06: feather volume and flight sequence, the bird studies behind the petal modules.
[ On the walk ]Index board 06: feather volume and flight sequence, the bird studies behind the petal modules.
Index board 07: layered collage of her own material samples, closing on light to trace to craft to structure.
[ On the walk ]Index board 07: layered collage of her own material samples, closing on light to trace to craft to structure.
Her six step method for turning reference into garment language, crop, trace, abstract, distort, volume, garment, shown with her own material collage.
[ On the walk ]Her six step method for turning reference into garment language, crop, trace, abstract, distort, volume, garment, shown with her own material collage.
Board 01, movement and translucent surface: her six category calls over uncredited reference photography, closing on branching lines suitable, feather and flower too literal.
[ Reference, house not named ]Board 01, movement and translucent surface: her six category calls over uncredited reference photography, closing on branching lines suitable, feather and flower too literal.
Board 02, embellishment and beadwork density: bugle and seed beads read as long-short rhythm, mirror stone marked not preferred for final textile.
Board 02, embellishment and beadwork density: bugle and seed beads read as long-short rhythm, mirror stone marked not preferred for final textile.
Board 03, volume and soft structure: her limitation notes reject excessively large pleat or ruffle volume, beside unattributed runway photography.
[ Reference, house not named ]Board 03, volume and soft structure: her limitation notes reject excessively large pleat or ruffle volume, beside unattributed runway photography.
Board 04's shape index: her numbered croquis over unattributed runway references, AURORA LINK text routes petal and cloud into look A, trench and origami into look C.
[ Reference, house not named ]Board 04's shape index: her numbered croquis over unattributed runway references, AURORA LINK text routes petal and cloud into look A, trench and origami into look C.
Board 05's shape index continues: her AURORA LINK notes route feather bloom and floral dresses into look A, corset and open back tops into look B.
[ Reference, house not named ]Board 05's shape index continues: her AURORA LINK notes route feather bloom and floral dresses into look A, corset and open back tops into look B.
Textiles and shape index board 02: her ink and photo collage names six categories, root network to eroded texture, matching her published series.
Textiles and shape index board 02: her ink and photo collage names six categories, root network to eroded texture, matching her published series.
Textiles and shape index board 04 continues in ink and collage: washed surface, translucent veil, mirror fragment's reflective shard geometry, dispersed edge.
Textiles and shape index board 04 continues in ink and collage: washed surface, translucent veil, mirror fragment's reflective shard geometry, dispersed edge.
Deck cover, titled Forgotten Dreams: her four axes, cultural memory, organic systems, body transformation and contemporary craft, open the trend forecast.
Deck cover, titled Forgotten Dreams: her four axes, cultural memory, organic systems, body transformation and contemporary craft, open the trend forecast.
Concept history states it directly: diffusion becomes sheer layering, fading becomes fragmentation, source is not the silhouette, behaviour is the design material.
Concept history states it directly: diffusion becomes sheer layering, fading becomes fragmentation, source is not the silhouette, behaviour is the design material.
Sculptural fashion research, garment as a second body: referencing Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons SS97, McQueen SS10 and Iris van Herpen.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons, McQueen, Iris van Herpen
From idealised to transformed body: referencing The Row alongside Comme des Garcons SS97 and Iris van Herpen's second body silhouette.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · The Row, Comme des Garcons, Iris van Herpen
Core technical traits of sculptural fashion: her own boned mesh and embroidery detail photos beside one Iris van Herpen reference.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Iris van Herpen
Avant-garde as a method of questioning fashion: Comme des Garcons FW83-84 and SS97 beside her own second body silhouette study.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Comme des Garcons
Avant-garde lineage cuts through five design eras with one line: ethereal and memory-driven avant-garde, not shock for shock's sake, no imagery.
Avant-garde lineage cuts through five design eras with one line: ethereal and memory-driven avant-garde, not shock for shock's sake, no imagery.
Futuristic fashion beyond metallic sci-fi: Pierre Cardin and Andre Courreges, Iris van Herpen, beside her own organic form study.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, Iris van Herpen
Space age to organic futurism timeline: Pierre Cardin and Andre Courreges photography with a text table naming Miyake, Chalayan, McQueen.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, Miyake, Chalayan, McQueen, Iris van Herpen
Cultural and social research: a traditional brocade source photo beside her own menswear reconstruction, captioned cultural sophistication, not costume.
Cultural and social research: a traditional brocade source photo beside her own menswear reconstruction, captioned cultural sophistication, not costume.
Quiet luxury plateaus: The Row and Loro Piana beside Loewe, Schiaparelli, Robert Wun and Duran Lantink as the dramatic counterpoint.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · The Row, Loro Piana, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Robert Wun, Duran Lantink
What my avant-garde stands for: McQueen No.13 and Robert Wun referenced beside her own craft detail and foundation photograph.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · McQueen, Robert Wun
Macro drivers close on one line across six categories: connection to Aurora is zero waste, craft provenance, silhouette authorship, future heritage, beside one unlabelled embroidery photo.
[ Reference, house not named ]Macro drivers close on one line across six categories: connection to Aurora is zero waste, craft provenance, silhouette authorship, future heritage, beside one unlabelled embroidery photo.
Zero waste as design authorship: Marine Serre and Issey Miyake A-POC referenced beside her own offcut to petal process photograph.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Marine Serre, Issey Miyake
Heritage inside a futurist body: Yuima Nakazato and Alexander McQueen referenced beside her large brocade architecture menswear photograph.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Yuima Nakazato, Alexander McQueen
Forecast method chains evidence to recurrence to driver to forecast to Aurora response, careful never to claim the trend caused the design.
Forecast method chains evidence to recurrence to driver to forecast to Aurora response, careful never to claim the trend caused the design.
Three directions converging around Aurora: Robert Wun, Schiaparelli, Yuima Nakazato, McQueen and Iris van Herpen mapped against her concept.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Robert Wun, Schiaparelli, Yuima Nakazato, McQueen, Iris van Herpen
The altered body: Comme des Garcons, Duran Lantink and Rick Owens referenced as evidence for expanded and distorted proportion.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Comme des Garcons, Duran Lantink, Rick Owens
Altered body and expanded proportion: Duran Lantink, McQueen and Comme des Garcons AW25, and Dior referenced across the page.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Duran Lantink, McQueen, Comme des Garcons, Dior
Material becomes form: Loewe, Iris van Herpen and Yuima Nakazato referenced as evidence for sculptural material led construction.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Loewe, Iris van Herpen, Yuima Nakazato
Sheer becomes compositional: Prada, Fendi and CFCL referenced as evidence for transparency used as a structural design tool.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Prada, Fendi, CFCL
Future heritage: Yuima Nakazato and Alexander McQueen referenced beside her own Vietnamese brocade photograph as the heritage counterpoint.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Yuima Nakazato, Alexander McQueen
Craft returns as future value: Spring 2026 couture, Dior, Schiaparelli, Robert Wun and CFCL referenced as evidence for craft's return.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Dior, Schiaparelli, Robert Wun, CFCL
Emotional colour and material: her own palette swatches beside one Iris van Herpen reference for silver, blue and translucency.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Iris van Herpen
Expressive authorship after uniform minimalism: an unlabelled SS26 photo beside Robert Wun FW25 and Schiaparelli as evidence.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Robert Wun, Schiaparelli
Forecast synthesis closes on organic futurist luxury, quiet to expressive, decoration to evidence of authorship, beside one unattributed mood photograph of draped fabric.
[ Reference, house not named ]Forecast synthesis closes on organic futurist luxury, quiet to expressive, decoration to evidence of authorship, beside one unattributed mood photograph of draped fabric.
Trend evidence, sensory return: Brunello Cucinelli, Colleen Allen, Prada, Max Mara and Mame Kurogouchi FW26 and SS26 referenced as evidence.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Brunello Cucinelli, Colleen Allen, Prada, Max Mara, Mame Kurogouchi
Trend evidence, pattern: Brunello Cucinelli, Rachel Comey, Mame Kurogouchi and Niccolo Pasqualetti referenced as evidence for pattern language.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Brunello Cucinelli, Rachel Comey, Mame Kurogouchi, Niccolo Pasqualetti
Forecast 2027, from visual to sensory memory: Mame Kurogouchi SS26 and Prada FW26 referenced across three photographs.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Mame Kurogouchi, Prada
Aurora design response, from dream to reality: Mame Kurogouchi, CFCL and Dries Van Noten referenced as her design evidence.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Mame Kurogouchi, CFCL, Dries Van Noten
Aurora design response, reality and trace: Prada FW26, Caroline Hu and Kim Shui referenced as evidence for her design direction.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Prada, Caroline Hu, Kim Shui
Aurora's forecast position: Prada FW26 referenced twice alongside Kim Shui as the closing evidence for her forecast placement.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Prada, Kim Shui
Micro-trend matrix responds in six specifics: four-layer sheer construction, ceremonial gấm becoming a protective menswear shell, beaded hosiery as a finishing layer.
Micro-trend matrix responds in six specifics: four-layer sheer construction, ceremonial gấm becoming a protective menswear shell, beaded hosiery as a finishing layer.
Season prognosis SS26-AW27: Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons, Gareth Pugh and Iris van Herpen referenced for controlled body expansion.
[ Research citation ]Image reference · Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons, Gareth Pugh, Iris van Herpen
Colour research rejects the literal rainbow aurora palette, keeping black for unconscious depth, cobalt for the surviving lucid signal, beside her own garment detail.
Colour research rejects the literal rainbow aurora palette, keeping black for unconscious depth, cobalt for the surviving lucid signal, beside her own garment detail.
Colour strategy fixes exact percentages: deep black 28, cobalt only 5, metallic 3, beside her own blue feather and lace glove detail photograph.
Colour strategy fixes exact percentages: deep black 28, cobalt only 5, metallic 3, beside her own blue feather and lace glove detail photograph.
Die versus alive 2026-28 retires flat floral print for floral as construction and logo-first branding for silhouette-first recognition, no imagery on the page.
Die versus alive 2026-28 retires flat floral print for floral as construction and logo-first branding for silhouette-first recognition, no imagery on the page.
Visual and art research reads petal, fin, shard, cellular growth for natural systems, six unattributed mood photographs marked insert evidence throughout.
[ Reference, house not named ]Visual and art research reads petal, fin, shard, cellular growth for natural systems, six unattributed mood photographs marked insert evidence throughout.
Material research names it exactly: organza becomes petals, shards and scarf, brocade gấm becomes menswear architecture, beads become hosiery and embroidery.
Material research names it exactly: organza becomes petals, shards and scarf, brocade gấm becomes menswear architecture, beads become hosiery and embroidery.
Construction research shows seven toile iterations engineering the second body, her own draping photographs proving technical precision allows visual instability.
Construction research shows seven toile iterations engineering the second body, her own draping photographs proving technical precision allows visual instability.
Research experimentation runs test, fail, adjust, retain or reject: her zero waste row asks if offcuts become a coherent second product, beside a blurred fabric photograph.
Research experimentation runs test, fail, adjust, retain or reject: her zero waste row asks if offcuts become a coherent second product, beside a blurred fabric photograph.
Critical evaluation names second-body silhouette as the clearest brand code, her reject list refuses copying CDG or McQueen distortion outright.
Critical evaluation names second-body silhouette as the clearest brand code, her reject list refuses copying CDG or McQueen distortion outright.
Material evidence: look A's foundation needed seven full rebuilds before it stood sculpturally, taffeta, gấm and organza named the hardest join.
Material evidence: look A's foundation needed seven full rebuilds before it stood sculpturally, taffeta, gấm and organza named the hardest join.
Embellishment evidence counts the resin coats exactly: pink earrings took 87 continuous coats, blue-green took 129, leftover beads seeded the mica shoe.
Embellishment evidence counts the resin coats exactly: pink earrings took 87 continuous coats, blue-green took 129, leftover beads seeded the mica shoe.
Look A, the petal dress, final photoshoot: hundreds of non-identical organza petals swarm a re-engineered boned foundation, beaded hosiery scattering light.
Look A, the petal dress, final photoshoot: hundreds of non-identical organza petals swarm a re-engineered boned foundation, beaded hosiery scattering light.
Look B, the shard dress, final photoshoot: whole breaks to fade, dark angular organza shards erupt from the waist over extensive net volume.
Look B, the shard dress, final photoshoot: whole breaks to fade, dark angular organza shards erupt from the waist over extensive net volume.
Look C, the menswear look, final photoshoot: dream closest to body hardens into armour, a zero-waste organza scarf carries fragments from womenswear.
Look C, the menswear look, final photoshoot: dream closest to body hardens into armour, a zero-waste organza scarf carries fragments from womenswear.
Cross-look constants gather the deck's six images: four-layer system, French seam and bound edge, fragments circulating through zero waste.
Cross-look constants gather the deck's six images: four-layer system, French seam and bound edge, fragments circulating through zero waste.
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